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All told, you can pay your respects in as little as half an hour, but you might wish to take your time as you stroll through the peaceful gardens that surround the shrines.

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We opted to spend a second night in Hinode Ryokan, as it's a long day to be hauling bags around, and Hinode has an amazing onsen that you're going to want a second night with.

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The former site of Tamaru Castle.

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Making your way down off Meki-toge is like passing into another world. The busy roads and urban sprawl that were your backdrop for the first two days give way to tea fields, rice paddies, and sleepy little villages. It's a pretty spectacular transition.

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One of the most famous restaurants in Mie Prefecture, this gorgeous little restaurant does traditional kaiseki cuisine that is likely to be the best thing you eat while you're in Japan.
(Today was a regular closing day)

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While this distillery doesn't conduct tours, you might want to duck in and grab a bottle of their sake. It's amazing.

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You'll eventually finish in the nondescript little town of Odai, where you'll overnight in an especially homey ryokan whose chatty owner puts together delicious meals. He's also a font of knowledge when it comes to the Kumano Kodo, so don't be shy about putting his (admittedly limited) English to the test!

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Most road stations offer the standard Japanese cuisine: udon, ramen, miso, soup, tonkatsu, curries etc. Okuise, however, is famous for its deer burgers on locally made green tea buns. They're definitely worth stopping in for!

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Not only does today not feature any toge, but you'll actually have finished your walking by early afternoon. This gives you a great chance to relax, explore Misedani, or (as we did) try your hand at stand-up paddleboarding out on the gorgeous Oku Ise Dam.

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Without a word of hyperbole, I can say our meal at Hinakaya was far and away the best meal we had in our five weeks in Japan. It's really that good.
It's also expensive, so you may wish to avail yourself of your ryokan's dinner instead.

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Located inside a former school, this is a very traditional onsen experience. Expect to see lots of naked old people who are not at all shy about letting it all hang out.
Still, there's something surreal about soaking in an onsen and then having a cup of tea in what is clearly a former classroom.
From here, it's a short walk to our accommodation for the evening!

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Tsuzurato-toge is the original route that Kumano Kodo pilgrims would have taken, and it's also the first World Heritage-listed pass you'll encounter on your long walk to the Kumano Sanzan.
With that said, the more modern (400 years old) Nisaka-toge is also World Heritage Listed, so it's really about whether you want a tough hike or an easy downhill today.As we were stupid enough to hike both, I can tell you all about both!

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A fishing town might not sound like the most exciting thing in the world, but we were pleasantly surprised to learn more about the village and see how it has adapted to life after fishing. While fishing is undoubtedly still the primary industry, tourism is something the locals are embracing with enthusiasm.
There are English language maps available to help you take your own walking tour, or you can just pass through and soak in the ambiance (and that distinctive fishy smell) on your way to the first of four toge for the day.

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We actually overnighted at Minoshima in Furusato, which was a nice experience, but a bit unnecessary given how short the day's walking was.

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The last pass of the day is a bit of a 'choose your own adventure' toge, as you've got the choice between the Edo or Meiji routes once you've reached the top of the pass.
Both are similarly difficult, with the Edo Route boasting some pretty lovely views of the Kumano Sea as the trade-off for the extra time it takes. We took the Edo route ourselves and found it to be a really pleasant walk.

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A remarkably pleasant mountain pass, Magose-toge boasts some of the most well-preserved and visually stunning stone paths you'll find on the Kumano Kodo Iseji route.
While the city of Owase is one of Japan's rainiest cities, the cunningly-wrought stone path somehow manages to avoid the worst of erosion by acting as a stunning waterfall on rainy days.

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If you're a sucker for punishment or just want to take a stunning photo atop Zou No Se (the elephant's back), you can opt to veer to the right atop Magose-toge and make the long (two hour) trek to the top of Mt. Binshi.
I'm not going to mince words here, this is the hardest climb you'll come across on the Kumano Kodo. All of the guidebooks will tell you how tough Yakiyama is, but it felt like a walk in the park after the seemingly endless uphill of Binshi-yama.
With that said, the view from atop the Elephant's Back is totally worth the pain you're going to feel in your legs.

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Regardless of how you choose to fill your day, you'll definitely want to pay a visit to the brand new Kumano Kodo Center at the end of your day's hiking.
While much of the signage is only in Japanese, a free audio guide makes it possible for you to learn all about the Kumano Kodo Iseji route as well as the many historic sites that lie along its length.
An attached restaurant and onsen are also a good way to wrap up your long day on the road.

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Our most favorite ryokan during traveling around Japan was definitely Mikiura Guesthouse!

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You will climb one mountain on this pilgrimage: Yakiyama. I heard scary things about this mountain, but to be honest, it wasn't actually that difficult compared to an average mountain pass. For me, the hardest thing about hiking Yakiyama was actually the two-hour hike down the mountain with a sprained ankle on slippery moss-covered rocks.
About 2.5 hours up and 2 hours down, Yakiyama is by far the longest toge but the experience is well worth the hike. Hey, if the pilgrims could do it, so can you!

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After the thrill of making it over Yakiyama, Miki-Hago-toge might feel like a bit of a letdown. Still, its distinctive stone walls and the viewpoint atop Miki-toge are highlights.

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The longest pass after Yakiyama, this daunting treble toge is certainly a tough way to start your day.

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More path than actual mountain pass, Hadasu-no-michi has the honour of being home to the oldest stretch of path on the entire Kumano Kodo.
It might seem unassuming as you walk along quiet village streets and even duck through people's backyards, but the few hundred feet of stone path on this particular toge date back to the Kamakura period (1192-1333), making them substantially older than the Edo & Meiji era paths that are predominant on the route.

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Once you've survived the occasionally torturous uphill climb through the undergrowth from Obuki-toge, you'll arrive on Kannon-michi-toge. This is one of the more distinct toge on the Kumano Kodo, as it has great significance to the Kannon faith. Lined with 33 Kannon statues and sporting an impressive ruined temple, it is definitely worth the effort to reach.

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One of the most popular passes on the entire Kumano Kodo Iseji, Matsumoto-toge is an easy and pretty morning hike. It's especially so during the spring, when cherry blossoms colour the entire area like fragrant snow.
One of my most enduring memories from the trek was listening to our guide sing a traditional folk song atop the pass. As you take in the view, its a bittersweet feeling to know you've nearly reached your goal.

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Translated as "The Monster's Castle", Oni-ga-jyo is a distinctive rock formation that is well worth the detour to experience.

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If you're feeling like you need a little pampering, I'd recommend the lavish Kumano Club Resort.

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Not only does it have great food and a huge onsen, it can also arrange day trips to Tori-toge and the impressive Sagiri-no-sato rice terraces.

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Once you're across the bridge and into Wakayama Prefecture, it's just a few minutes' walk to Hayatama Taisha.
Once you pass under those bright torii gates and round one last corner, you're officially done!
Take your time to pay your respects and soak in the fact you've just achieved something pretty spectacular.
There's also the option to extend your trip by heading to the other two Kumano Sanzan sites.
While you might not feel up to hiking all the way there today (or even the next day), you can always take a cab or make use of public transport to complete the trio.